Death Valley National Park, California

Well, I think it's pretty obvious the first two pictures weren't
taken in Death Valley. We just included these to show the contrast
in weather and what you might expect getting there in the winter or
spring, then once you are
there. We drove a couple hundred miles through the snow in central
and southern Oregon on this trip (mid March 2012). Really, the weather
was COLD and there was at least some snow almost all the way from
Northwest Oregon to the edge of Death Valley. It didn't warm up
until we were in Beatty, Nevada. The weather was pretty nice for
most of our week long stay, only getting hot a couple days.
Be prepared for totally different
weather in the different areas of the valley. This is a BIG place
with BIG differences in altitude, and temperatures can easily vary by
30 degrees or more from Scotty's Castle at the north end to Bad Water Basin,
almost at the south end. Some of the mountain passes (and
campgrounds) are at high elevation and can be downright cold, even
in the spring and fall.
Our plan for this trip was to ride
our motorcycles (street bikes) in and around the park. We
hauled them down in our small enclosed trailer. We could have easily spent
another week exploring but unfortunately we needed to head back to work.
The last day it was pretty warm (see the pic. above) and the wind
kicked up. When you see WINDY in the
weather forecast for Death Valley, they aren't kidding. Since it's
such a dry area, windy means lots of dust so be prepared for that
also.
And when you see HOT, believe it.
Hot and dry is the key phrase here. A couple years ago we drove
through Death Valley on our way back to Oregon from Moab Utah, the
last week of September. When we went through Las Vegas
it was around 80 degrees. By the time we got into Death Valley at
Ashford Junction on Hwy 178 it was 105 F and never dropped below that
until we got into the higher elevation close to Scotty's Castle. Our
RV fridge really didn't like that.
Temperatures exceeding 100 degrees F are actually normal here for
the spring and summer months, with daily highs
averaging 115-116 in
July and August. Daytime temps over 120 F are commonplace. Lows at
night don't normally drop below 80 F from June - August.
Our "lodging" of choice on this
trip was Sunset Campground, just across the highway from Furnace Creek
Ranch. Furnace Creek Campground was closed until further notice for
utilities repairs and Texas Spring was closed to RVs for the season. If you have an RV with a generator and plenty of fresh water
capacity Sunset is not a bad choice. It's basically a big gravel campground with
asphalt roads to drive on. For us it wasn't a problem. We drag race
and the pits at most racetracks are laid out very much the same as
this so
we felt right at home.
The campground has decent
bathrooms, (which were clean) with running water and flush toilets,
plus RV dump facilities (also clean). There's a clean up area
outside one of the bathrooms with several sinks and some counter
space. We didn't ask about the purpose but people were doing dishes,
brushing their teeth and shaving, etc. That's a nice bonus feature
if you're in a tent or RV with limited facilities.
Sunset has NO shade and we noticed a few campers would drive their
RV across the road to park in the somewhat shaded day use /picnic
area, then back to their camp spot at night. If that's on your
agenda, make sure to leave some gear in your campsite so someone
else doesn't move in.
Texas
Spring is just a few hundred feet up the paved access road from
Sunset. It's mostly intended for tent campers, with a limited number
of RV sites. The RV spots are only available through mid March, then
it is tents only until it closes at the end of April. We never
ventured up there, but it's another option in the Furnace Creek
area.
Also,
Furnace Creek Ranch has a very limited RV park. With all the roaming
of the resort grounds we did, we never saw this facility. Maybe next
time we'll check it out for you. If you've stayed in the RV park
drop us a line with some info and your impressions.
There are a few other NPS campgrounds
in the park to choose from and many of them are in cooler (higher)
locations. Due to our street bikes we opted for Sunset
because we didn't want to ride on gravel roads getting in and out of
a campground. Since we'd been stuck in the cold, wet Oregon weather
for almost 5 months we were looking forward to the "warm" dry
change. Also, Furnace Creek is basically in the middle of the
valley, so day rides north or south are practical.
Here's a chart showing all the NPS improved campgrounds in the park.
Note that all of the lower elevation (read, HOT) campgrounds close
the middle of April for the summer.
|
Campground |
Season |
Elevation |
Fee |
Sites |
Water |
Tables |
Firepits |
Toilets |
Dump Station |
| Furnace Creek |
all year |
-196' |
$18** |
136 |
yes |
yes |
yes |
flush |
yes |
| Sunset |
Oct-Apr |
-196' |
$12 |
270 |
yes |
no |
no |
flush |
yes |
| Texas Spring |
Oct-Apr |
sea level |
$14 |
92 |
yes |
yes |
yes |
flush |
yes |
| Stovepipe Wells |
Oct-Apr |
sea level |
$12 |
190 |
yes |
some |
some |
flush |
yes |
| Mesquite Spring |
all year |
1800' |
$12 |
30 |
yes |
yes |
yes |
flush |
yes |
| Emigrant (tents only) |
all year |
2100' |
free |
10 |
yes |
yes |
no |
flush |
no |
| Wildrose |
all year |
4100' |
free |
23 |
yes |
yes |
yes |
pit |
no |
| Thorndike* |
Mar-Nov |
7400' |
free |
6 |
no |
yes |
yes |
pit |
no |
| Mahogany Flat* |
Mar-Nov |
8200' |
free |
10 |
no |
yes |
yes |
pit |
no |
At
Stovepipe Wells, in addition to the motel,
there's also a 14 space "RV Park" with full hookups. It's just
behind the General Store and basically just a separate section of
the NPS campground, which is very much like Sunset Campground at
Furnace Creek. If you want to run your air conditioner from shore
power this would probably be the place. However, you might want to
call ahead. We showed up on a Sunday afternoon and were told nothing
was available for almost two weeks. Furnace Creek, here we come!
Furnace Creek Ranch also has motel like
accommodations for the non RV crowd. The reviews we've seen
would have us leaning toward our RV, but the resort in general was
clean and well kept. If you need provisions there is a general store
that has a little of everything. Water, spirits, a small produce
section, a little ice cream, deli type sandwiches, the typical
tourist trap clothing and lots of trinkets are all available at a
premium price.
Furnace
Creek Inn, up on the hill, has a hotel and restaurant. This is VERY
high end. We ate at the restaurant one night and were a little out
of our comfort zone. The food (and presentation) were both good but
just a little above our pay grade, so to speak. That said, we're
glad we did. The atmosphere was nice and the employees very
professional, just a little "stiff". Reservations are an absolute
MUST at the restaurant. Our reservations were right at opening time
(5;30 PM) and even though the dining room was less than 1/4 full we
saw a family of 4 without reservations turned away. Call ahead!
You may have read other places on the internet
that fuel is expensive here. They weren't lying! We stumbled on to
the cheapest fuel we've seen in a long time just outside the park in
Beatty Nevada, the last little town on your way in from the east
side. We filled up our truck with diesel @ $3.99 then drove to
Furnace Creek where the diesel at the Chevron (only game in town)
was $5.74. Premium gas was $6.05!
There IS one thing here that's actually FREE.
The Borax Museum at Furnace Creek Ranch didn't cost us a dime to
wander around. We enjoy the history and old west type atmosphere so
it was right up our alley. Free is a very good price!
Then of
course there's the Furnace Creek golf course, dotted with date palm trees. Yeah,
really! We don't play golf but there's a nice trail along the
south edge of the course that goes back to a nice little raised deck
with some seating overlooking the million watt solar array that
powers most of the area. Due to all the trees and green grass it was noticeably cooler than our campground. While we were hanging out at
the back of the park we were visited by a pack (well, 4 anyway) of
coyotes. This was broad daylight mind you. They were not afraid of the humans and were content to eat
the dates lying all over the golf course. Be that as it may, if you
have small pets or really small children, keep a close eye on them.
There were also at least a couple coyotes wandering the grounds at
Scotty's Castle. Don't be fooled by their apparent tame nature, these are
NOT house pets! Keep your distance.
Many of the
side trips like the "Racetrack" require driving on dirt and gravel
roads. Some of these are a little challenging for your grocery
getter and can require 4 wheel drive, high ground clearance and off
road tires in good shape. If you don't own one of these vehicles all
is not lost. You can rent a Jeep that's been prepared for this
purpose right across the highway from Furnace Creek Inn. These are
nice, new vehicles and the price we were quoted seemed very
reasonable. However, at least one of the major insurance companies
will not cover this activity so do some homework here. Again, ask
the rental place, they'll clue you in on this situation. The Jeep
rental place also runs a general towing service so if you need your
car towed in Death Valley they're probably the people to call.
Here are a
few useful phone numbers:
Furnace
Creek Visitor Center (NPS)
760-786-3200
Furnace Creek Resort
760-786-2345
Furnace Creek Lodging
800-236-7916 or outside the US
303-297-2757
Furnace Creek Inn Restaurant Res. (REQUIRED)
760-786-3385
Jeep Rentals
877-970-5337
Stovepipe Wells Village
760-786-2387
There are
so many places to see and things to do in Death Valley we can't
condense it down to just one page. Take a look at some of the pics
we've included and check back, we'll be adding more pages. The next
installment is on Scotty's Castle. We've been there a
few times and have lots of pictures. We did the inside (house) and
also the underground tour on this trip. It's a very interesting
place, see the link below.
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Did I mention it was COLD getting to Death Valley? |
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Beatty Nevada & it's finally warming up! Cheap gas too!! |
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Side road to Rhyolite ghost town, between Beatty Nevada and Death Valley. |
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Daylight pass road and still looking ominous. |
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On the way to Furnace Creek and warm now! |
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A little perspective from the Badwater salt flat looking at the sea level sign. |
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Nice view of the valley from Artists Drive. |
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Outside the Free to the Public Furnace Creek Borax Museum. |
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Train used by the Death Valley Railroad hauling borax. |
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Furnace Creek golf course viewed from the back side. |
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Coyotes at Scotty's Castle seemed mostly unconcerned with the tourists. |
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The Amargosa Range makes a spectacular backdrop for a day ride from Furnace Creek to Scotty's Castle. |
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Maybe this is why they call it Sunset Campground? |
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Surprisingly peaceful here at night. |
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Ubehebe Crater, just 5 miles (paved) off Scotty's Castle Road. Don't miss it. |
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Yes, you can actually walk down to the bottom! Look for the ciircle of people in the larger image. |
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